London Fashion Week is a twice yearly highlight in the fashion calendar.
It’s the time of year where thousands flock to the British capital to catch a glimpse of some of the most exciting moments in fashion. At least, that’s how it usually plays out.
This year, due to current Lockdown restrictions and the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic, London Fashion week went fully digital for the first time ever. However, all wasn’t lost as it meant that even more of us got the chance to witness the action with our own eyes and in the comfort of our own homes.
As part of the British Fashion Council’s newly gender-neutral approach, this years LFW was a completely genderless event. Merging menswear and womenswear, the shows offered an inspiring display of the creative and innovative talents of both young emerging designers and some of the most established names in the industry.
Offering a glimmering insight into post-pandemic fashion through creative films and visually striking lookbooks, LFW AW21 has already got us excited for what the new normal might look like for our post-lockdown wardrobe.
Let’s have a recap of some of the events highlights.
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A debut collection which may have stole the show, Harry Styles’ favourite fashion designer Harris Reed made his first appearance at London Fashion Week with his post-grad collection.
A fascinatingly unique display of gender-fluid styles, the collection embodied everything that Reed stands for; pushing the boundaries and subverting gendered expectations. Entirely handmade by himself and his team, Reed’s demi-couture display of incredibly voluminous ensembles utilised both new and repurposed fabrics to bring mermaid-style punk vibes to the mix.
Reed said of his collection: “I felt like this was the time to use clothing [to show] why I fell in love with it in the first place, exploring the limits of transitioning and shedding a new skin”.
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Inspired by French rococo painter François Boucher, specifically his Daphnis and Chloe painting, Vivienne Westwood’s unisex collection of t-shirts, bodysuits, parkas, dresses and denim reflected the artwork’s pastoral print.
Smart tailored blazers, classic pleated skirts and Vivienne Westwood’s famous 1900’s corsets were the perfect representation of her signature tailoring.
At the forefront of her collection was her eco-conscious values, with over 90% of the collection being made from sustainably sourced materials. These included organic silks, recycled denim and a forest positive printing system that minimises emissions and saves water.
In true Molly Goddard style, her AW21 collection perfectly depicted her love for maximalism with a display of voluminous, oversized designs in traditional palettes.
The ‘Queen of Tulle’ presented an updated version of her classic statement looks. Fun, bold and vibrant, her collection of fairytale style dresses in vivid colours welcomed a modern twist with clashing knits, tartan kilts, oversized accessories and exaggerated make-up.
Erdem Moralıoğlu’s latest collection channels his love of ballet in a re-imagined fashion. The breathtaking collection featured elaborate evening dresses, feathered skirts overlayed with stuning trench coats and eye-catching headpieces.
Traditional ballet pieces like leotards and ballet slippers were reconceptualised to fit into the modern day era, as a wave of stiff platforms and bodycon tops took to the runway.
Ballerina’s both past and present were enlisted to showcase the collection which was beautifully and romantically displayed in an opera-like fashion.
Simone Rocha’s AW21 collection toughened up feminine styles to perfectly capture a pretty punk vibe.
Pretty, floaty dresses and ballet style skirts were teamed with platform boots, black leather biker jackets and lace detail tights. Adding further dimensions to the collection, crisp white collar shirts and deconstructed pinafore dresses were featured, of which Simone took inspiration from her own life as a mother during lockdown.
A continuous theme throughout the collection were the beautifully embroidered rose embellishments, which could be seen right down to the hand-painted pearls on the complimenting accessories. Incredible attention to detail.
Emilia Wickstead’s AW21 collection took inspiration from three different movies Teorema (1968) by Pier Paolo Pasolini; I am Love (2009) by Luca Guadagnino; and Alfred Hitchcock’s Rear Window (1954).
Formal looks with sharp tailoring were combined with softer tailoring to create fluid shapes with a modern twist on some of the most classic looks. From fitted pencil skirts and split hems, to cut-out details and cropped styles, paired with oversized ensembles and more casual fits, it was a refreshing look into 2021 evening wear.
In amongst all of the clean lines and modest layers was a carefully curated selection of statement pieces including jacquard coats and dresses.
An emotional display of family countryside life, Roksanda Illincic’s contribution to LFW saw a short film offering an insight into three generations of women, featuring actress Vanessa Redgrave alongside her daughter Joely Richardson and granddaughter Daisy Bevan. The production was filmed on an iPhone with collaborations actioned over Zoom – very lockdown, indeed.
Vibrant, hand-painted silk fabrics made up a collection of glamorous and voluminous dresses with oversized sleeves, some of which were constructed out of single pieces of fabric. Whilst the more tailored looks offered a more understated yet elegant style of ensemble.
Daniel W Fletcher
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This year’s LFW saw menswear designer Daniel W. Fletcher create his first full womenswear collection.
The collection encompassed his signature design details with pieces that were immediately recognisable to his brand. The monochromatic colour palette was displayed across a multitude of styles from slim-fit denim jeans and double-denim jackets to contrast stitching, it was all very ’90s.
As a London wholesale silk supplier and silk printing specialist, Biddle Sawyer Silks works with high-end fashion design houses and up and coming designers on their latest collections. We have been a UK leading supplier of the finest quality silks since 1926, with a passion for inspiring creativity with the most unique, stunning designs.
If you’re looking for a reputable silk supplier in London, we’d love to work with you! Please get in touch to enquire.